March 23, 2014#

Test Post 2

Perfumes are made up of three notes: The top notes scents that are perceived immediately, usually described as “fresh,” “assertive” or “sharp.” The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly. The middle (or heart) notes compounds are usually more mellow and “rounded” emerging as the top notes dissipate. The heart notes form the main body of the perfume. Scents from this note appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume. The base note compounds are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and “deep” and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down.


March 23, 2014#

Test Post


Interpretation of ambience, nuance and desire is a part of the role of the perfumer; even altering the concentration of a scent can change its character.

In Amsterdam last week I was working with the Olfactive Design Studio at IFF to modify their interpretations of the words I distilled from smell walks in April 2013. As a result of blind (?) user smell testing, concisely communicated as a spreadsheet, “Flower Explosion” now has more cut stem than floral femininity, coffee’s phenolic component is reduced to allow the grounds to emerge and a lower dosage of the component elements of leafy rain has resulted in fresh, pea shoots in place of cleaning products in a supermarket’s cleaning aisle.